Digital Underground - Freaks Of The Industry

Artist: Digital Underground Album: Sex Packets Label: Tommy Boy Music Released: 1990

PSA Texting and Driving, UK, August 2009, (HQ) Master Original Video

Tredegar Comprehensive School and Gwent Police (Gwent is located in south-east Wales,UK) present a half hour drama entitled 'COW' --The film that will stop you from texting and driving," with SPECIAL EFFECTS BY ZIPLINE CREATIVE www.ziplinecreative.co.uk (this is a trailer video) ** In the United Kingdom, a graphic public service film depicting the ravages of using cell phones in cars has spread virally on the Internet. ** The four-minute sequence involves British student actors and crews -- and is part of a larger 30-minute drama produced and directed by Peter Watkins-Hughes -- (visit http -- an award winning former BBC producer who is also a lecturer for the Documentary Film & Television department at the Newport School of Art, Media and Design in Wales. This drama was made for -- and with -- the Gwent Police Department, located approximately 150 miles west of London. ** WARNING the graphic clip is professionally staged -- but does a fine job hammering its message home. In my view, it should be seen by every parent -- and imported/licensed for broadcast or school use throughout the United States from Mr. Watkins-Hughes. His contact information is available above. COW: Its all about Cassie COWan a nice girl from a Gwent valleys family who kills four people on the road because she used her mobile and lost her concentration for a few seconds. Gwent police is proud to have helped Brynmawr filmmaker Peter Watkins- Hughes in the production, which stars local drama students ...

Technical Car Advice - How to Change the Shock Absorbers on your Car

Worn or damaged shock absorbers are dangerous, have them checked on a regular basis. Worn shock absorbers allow the wheels to bounce and the body to roll and pitch. Tyre wear is accentuated due to the irregular battering encountered and braking efficiency is drastically reduced due to tyre-to-road contact being inadequate.

Here are a few important points to look for:

LOOSE OR DAMAGED MOUNTINGS

Check that the fastenings are firm, rubbers are not missing and that all bolts are tight. The shock absorber will not do its job unless it is fastened correctly.

LEAKING SHOCK ABSORBER

Look for tell-tale smears on the unit. Make sure they come from the body of the shock absorber and have just not been thrown up from the road, sump or transmission.

TEST METHOD

Where a test machine is not available an approximate idea of the condition of the shock absorbers can be obtained by the following method:

Bounce each corner of the car several times, releasing at the bottom of the stroke. Each corner should rebound to the top of its stroke and then settle in the normal position. If it bounces more than this, the shock absorber needs to be replaced.

If the car is difficult or impossible to bounce then the shock absorber has probably seized or has a bent piston rod perhaps due to a faulty mounting bracket. Always use the correct tools for any job, this can never be overstressed. Shock absorber fitment is no different. The following tools will make the fitment much easier:

· Spring Compressor

· Brake hose clamp

· Strut vise clamp

· Torque wrench There are three main types of shock absorbers, namely; the wet strut, the sealed strut and the telescopic.

Refer to the owner's manual for the type in your vehicle.

1. REPAIRING A WET STRUT

Here are the steps to the follow for wet strut repair.

Step 1. Loosen the piston rod nut and loosen o9ne turn using the correct size socket spanner. Loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and make a match mark on one of the bolts and the rim before you remove the wheel. Use axle stands for safety.

Step 2. Clamp the coil spring with a spring compressor. Clamp the brake hose and remove the spring clip, disconnect the brake hose fittings, do not spill brake fluid, as it is corrosive.

Step 3. Disconnect the steering arm from the strut by removing the bolts. Remove the top three nuts and mark their position. Now, remove the strut together with the brake assembly, by lifting them out.

Step 4. Move to a workbench and remove the old internal parts. Clamp the strut in a strut clamp, compress the coil spring until it moves freely, and remove the piston rod nut. Note the position of the disassembled components so that they can be replaced in the correct sequence.

Step 5. Using the correct size spanner, remove the gland screw, take care as it may have to be re-used. The function of the gland screw is to centralise and clamp the internals. Remove the old internals and check for compatibility against the new insert.

Step 6. Drain the oil and discard it. Clean out the tube and threads with a solvent. Refill the tube with the necessary amount of oil, either SAE 30 or a suitable equivalent. The new insert can be slid into position.

Step 7. Carefully re-fit the gland screw and torque it to the correct specification. Ensure that the new insert is firmly positioned in the tube and make sure that the piston rod is centred with the correct amount of thread exposed. Prime the unit well to get the oil circulating.

Step 8. Align the spring with the seat hollows. Grease the bearings. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembly. The unit can now be installed into the vehicle.

Step 9. Once securely positioned, the top three securing nuts should be tightened to the correct specification. Refit the steering arm to the strut knuckle and tighten the piston rod nut to correct specification. Replace the dust cap.

Step 10. Reconnect the brake hose fitting and replace the spring clip. Refit the wheel, make sure the match marks are aligned. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel nuts.

Step 11. Bleed the brake line. It is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven. The wet strut repair is now complete.

REPLACING A SEALED STRUT

Here are the steps to follow for front sealed strut replacement:

Step 1. The procedure up to this stage is exactly the same for the sealed strut as it was for the wet so we can go straight onto disconnecting the brake hose. Clamp the hose, remove the spring clip and disconnect the brake hose.

Step 2. Note the position of the adjustment cam by making a notch on the lower bracket. Support the suspension with a jack to prevent it from dropping. Remove the two securing bolts. The sealed strut can now be removed from the steering knuckle and lifted out.

Step 3. On a workbench clamp the strut in a strut clamp and compress the coil spring until it moves freely. Remove the top nut and disassemble the components noting their position. Remove the old strut from the strut clamp and compare it with the new unit. Now place the new unit in the strut clamp.

Step 4. Ensure that the new unit is well primed and carefully replace the components in the correct sequence, checking them for wear or damage. Ensure that the coil spring is aligned with the lower seat hollow. The "out" marked stamped on the upper spring seat must face the outside of the vehicle. Tighten the top nut just enough to secure the assembled strut.

Step 5. Remove the spring compressor, the sealed strut is ready for refitting. Tighten the top three nuts to the correct specification. Refit the steering knuckle to the lower bracket. Apply oil to the bolt threads and insert them from the rear side. Align the adjustment cam on the steering knuckle with the notch previously marked on the lower bracket and tighten the nuts according to specification. Finally, torque the piston rod nut to the manufacturer's specification and replace the dust cap. Reconnect the brake hose fittings and replace the spring clip. Bleed the brake line and it is recommended that the tyre pressure and wheel alignment be checked and the car test-driven.

2. REPLACING A TELESCOPIC SHOCK ABSORBER

Fitting a telescopic shock absorber is a lot easier than fitting wet or sealed struts. However, there's always those small but important points to keep in mind. Don't forget to lubricate the bushings, use a rubber lubricant, not oil. For stud applications, the top mounting should be fully tightened only when the full weight of the car is on wheels.

And remember, don't overtighten the bushings. When fitting adjustable shock absorbers please follow adjustment instructions on package ( 4 settings). General notes: To remove nuts, use Loctite penetrating oil. Never burn them off. For stubborn nuts use a "nutcracker" and throughout the job, always use the correct tools. Before installing the new unit, make sure it's the correct one for the vehicle.

Prime the unit before fitting it and check all components before replacing them - if they're old and worn, they too should be replaced. Don't grip the piston rod with pliers or place the unit itself in a vise, you'll damage it.

I hope this articale helps if you need to change or repair the shock absorbers on your car yourself.

Gerald Crawford was born in South Africa, studied electronics, telecommunication, eco-travel and african travel concepts. He taught responsible tourism in South Africa. If you have any questions or comments please e-mail me on. E-mail Address: southafricantravelarticles@12234455.co.za Website Address: http://www.12234455.co.za

Quark Turbo Flashlights: "Weapon Light Standard" by Nutnfancy

You can get totally ripped off when you go a buy a dedicated "weapon light." Some guys might be able to justify a $200-500 expense on ONE gun light but I cannot. Buyer beware: pricing on such lights is ludicrous and an outgrowth of marketing hype and strategy ("hey we're expensive because we're cool!"). Enter the 4Sevens "Quark Turbo" flashlights (and their successors) which pretty much divide this competition asunder. That's because these are extremely capable, lightweight, compact, tough, and relatively affordable lighting products that will impress you with their performance. The Quark 123 Turbo is my favorite (in weapon light POU): it weighs a svelt 3.6 oz and cranks out up to 230 lumens from it's programmable UI. The AA Turbo is not far behind at 205 Lumens but is a bit longer due to AA power cell use and weighs in at about 5.5 oz with rechargeables. The 123 Turbo accepts the AW IC-protected 1600 mah 17650 rechargeable cell but a more powerful 2600mah18650 won't fit (upgrade to a Quark 18650 body, purchased separately; battery types and technologies will also change). Both feature the programmable Quark "Tacitical" interface which allows two mode choices: tight bezel position and loose bezel positions (primary and secondary modes). The modes include: 0.2 lumen Moonlight (very useful), 4 lumen Low, 22 lumen Medium, 85 lumen high, and 230 lumen (205 lumen AA) Max, SOS, Strobe, and Beacon modes. This UI does lack ultimate versatility but offers mode memorization and ...

G-SHOCK IN PARIS

Soirée SHOCK IN PARIS Après New York, Londres ou Tokyo SHOCK THE WORLD et CASIO s'invitent à Paris le mardi 13 octobre pour célébrer les 25 ans de la célèbre G SHOCK. C'est au Musée de l'Homme (dernière soirée avant fermeture pour travaux), place du Trocadéro, que SHOCK IN PARIS a invité les meilleurs DJ du moment : Anoraak, Pony Pony Run Run, Make the Girl Dance, Lexicon, Yuksek ou Data Une nuit Made In Japan où sports extrêmes, Jeux Vidéo et Harajuku Girls ont étés au RDV... Un événement organisé par l'agence de RP Zmirov Communication pour Casio France.

How to Recognize Fake Gold

There are various ways to differentiate fake gold from real gold. I have outlined some of those ways below.

Price test: The first test of real gold is to do a market survey of the current price of Gold. If the gold item you have is far cheaper then, that may be a sign to investigate more.

Visual test: This can be very deceiving but there is no way to recognize real gold without a visual test. The question then is "How does real gold look like?" First of all, look for some kind of marking. Every genuine gold has a marking showing the karat value. They usually appear as 14k, 18k, 22k and 24k. The karat system is used to express the percentage of pure gold in the item. The higher the karat value, the higher the percentage of gold. This means that 24k is pure gold, 18k is about 75% gold, 14k is about 59% gold while 10k is about 42% gold. Sometimes one may see GP or EP beside the markings. This means that the item is plated with gold. It is just covered with gold. This is not real gold because the gold plating may just be a very thin layer.

It is important to note that gold can come in different colors when they are mixed with different compounds. The examples include white gold which is produced when nickel is mixed with gold; Palladium used to create white gold for people allergic to nickel; green gold when silver is mixed with gold; and pink to red gold when different quantities of copper are mixed with gold.

Real gold has a percentage of sheen but should not be very shiny. When a gold jewelry is extremely shiny, it may not be real gold.

Acid test: The reaction of the item to nitric acid or hydrochloric acid will help to determine whether it is genuine or not. Real gold is not affected or does not form a reaction with nitric acid or hydrochloric acid. Most metals that are usually portrayed as gold when tested in hydrochloric acid form a reaction whereas real gold does not, that is why this has been established as the real test for gold.

Reputable Jeweler: It is always advisable to buy gold from a reputable jeweler because you can always request a test, check the markings and find some good advice about the product which you would not have got.

Discoloration: Fake gold, when worn can either cause discoloration of the skin or discoloration of the jewelry itself. Many people use this method as the simplest way of testing for real gold. And for those that have a warranty, they are simply returned when found to be fake.

Rust: Fake gold rusts in humid temperature, and also over time while real gold does not.
Bite the gold: Gold is soft and when bitten leaves a small mark. Fake gold is very strong and when bitten does not leave a mark.

Weight: Gold has a good amount of density. Put it in water and see the quantity of water that it displaces. The more density it has, then gold is likely present.

Real gold can be hard to tell apart from fake; cash for gold will help you decide and will be happy to buy any off you if it is real.